Curly Hair: How to Deal

I have fought a battle with my hair my entire life.

Exhibit A:

 



Kindergarten smile aside, this is how my hair looked 100% of the time. My poor mom had straight hair her whole life, so she had no idea what to do with a curly headed little girl! Those bangs, though.

I'm hoping it was an accident because....

 

Yikes.

 

So as things naturally go, it got worse before it got better. Middle School was a terrible time for my hair. I fought back with stronger weapons, parting it down the middle and wielding it into place with gel. I must have done a thorough job ridding our household of the pictures taken during this time, because I could not find a single one to show as proof. (You're not missing anything, except maybe a good laugh.) Apparently it was bad enough that my mom attempted to gently tell me I looked like a hot mess. She did her best to make me look less embarrassing in public, but she was unable to make much progress. It was a few more years before I taught myself how to use a round brush and blow dryer to smooth my hair into straight, silky locks.  

 

Slightly washed out, but you get the picture. No more lion's mane.

 

 

However, this post isn't about straightening your curls, but how to embrace them and make your curls look their best. (If you're interested in seeing how I straighten my hair, I can do a post about that too...let me know!) While it's perfectly fine to straighten your hair every now and again, it can open up a whole new world when you learn to manage your God-given texture. You'll save your hair from tons of damage, cut down on time styling your hair in the morning, and maybe clock in a few extra minutes of sleep!

 

I am going to share my favorite curly hair products and my best tips I have learned over the years. Some of the products I've mentioned before, but some are new discoveries. Disclaimer: I am no hairstylist or professional, these are just the techniques and products I have found work best for me. My hope is that some of these things will work for you too, and maybe you can come to love your hair's natural texture!

 

Let's Start with the products.

 

DevaCurl Light Defining Gel ($19) has been my favorite curly hair gel for years. I try other products all the time, but always come back to this one. I've never tried the Ultra Defining Gel, but I've been thinking about giving it a go when I run out of this one. I always get the best results when I use this gel. It smells so fresh and fruity, kind of like Sprite or 7UP. It's not sticky at all. I use about a half-dollar coin sized amount, starting at the ends of my hair and using what is leftover at the roots. Once I have that worked into my hair, I use a tiny bit more, maybe a dime-sized amount to scrunch my hair upside down. The DevaCurl website is also a great resource for curly girls. They have lots of how-to videos and tips on styling and caring for curly hair.

 

Not Your Mother's Kinky Moves Curl Defining Hair Cream ($6) is a great product you can find in most drugstores. This cream has a bit more hold than the DevaCurl Gel, and it gives you more defined ringlets. The only thing I don't like about this product is that the cream has a slight tackiness to it and can feel slightly heavy in the hair, but this helps give the cream the great hold it has. I've noticed that this one can be hard to find. I went to 3 or 4 different stores before I found it in stock at Ulta. Walmart carries the line as well.

 

Pantene Pro-V Curl Defining Mousse ($4) is another awesome drugstore find for curly hair. This non-sticky mouse defines my curls without feeling crunchy. It gives great volume (especially if used with a diffuser) and makes curls soft and bouncy. If you prefer a mousse, pick this one up next time you're at the store!

 

Bumble and Bumble Thickening Dryspun Finish ($29) is a new product I discovered about a week ago thanks to an awesome Sephora consultant. This spray is very light and airy, but don't be fooled. Dryspun delivers amazing volume and texture with a few quick sprays at the roots. I like to use it to mess up my hair a bit. It's the perfect product when your curls seem to be falling or looking a little limp. Be warned: you WILL love it, but it goes fast! Try to use as little as you can to get the look you're going for.

 

Other curly hair essentials:

 

Wide tooth comb

Diffuser (the bigger the better)

Hair oil (Your choice. I like Moroccanoil Treatment.)

Microfiber towel, Turkish Cotton towel, or Tshirt

Curling iron (A 1" curling iron matches my natural curl pattern, and I use a normal curling iron. Not a tapered wand.)

 

Now that you've got your favorite products, give these techniques a try.

Start in the shower. ALWAYS use conditioner. Dry hair=frizzy curls. If you have tangly hair, use a wide tooth come while you're in the shower. If you brush or comb your hair after you get out, you will break apart and straighten the hair's natural curl pattern. You can also begin scrunching your hair in the shower to encourage the curls before you even step out.

 

If you're going to wrap your hair in a turban, pick the right fabric. My hair holds a TON of water, so I get water everywhere when if I don't put my hair up in a towel after a shower. However, choosing the right fabric is so important!! The loops in the normal terry cloths used to make regular bath size towels can pull hair and rough up the hair's cuticle. This means frizz! Microfiber and Turkish cotton towels don't have the same loops. This allows the towel to help sop up extra water without snagging the hair. Tshirts are also perfect. (Obviously use a clean one). Just be careful to wrap the hair very loosely to minimize crushing the curls. If you're able to get away without wrapping your hair, that's even better.

 

Don't leave the turban in forever. Try to limit turban time to about 15 minutes. It's more difficult to work with curly hair that has dried too much than damp or wet hair. If it's a little too dry when you take it down, you can re-wet it with a spray bottle or leave in conditioner.

 

Be gentle when working the product through the hair. When you're working the product into the hair, start at the ends, being careful to not pull the curls straight. Once you've finished with that step, flip hair over and give it a good scrunching. I always like to use a tiny bit more product to scrunch upside down. Scrunching upside down gives the hair more volume and bounce.

 

Air drying is best. Some products work better when trying to air dry than others. The DevaCurl gel is the best product I've found when I know I'll be air drying my curls. The gel gets slightly crunchy while drying, but it's designed to work this way. The crunchiness helps hold the curl but disappears after a scrunch or two. The cream also works really well when air drying, but I've noticed the mousse tends to be a bit hard and crunchy if you don't use a diffuser.

 

A diffuser is a curly girl's best friend. If you don't have time to air dry your curls every day, a diffuser is a must have. I have found the bigger, the better. The one I am currently using is very wide and round. This allows the air to be diffused over a wider area so that the air is blowing with less force when the air hits your hair. Without a diffuser, the air can blow the curls out of shape and leave them looking a bit frizzy and crazy. I like to use a diffuser just long enough so that it's not dripping wet (about 3 minutes). I start by focusing on the ends, then flip my head over and scrunch lightly upside down. Slowly flip your hair back over, and lift the hair at the roots to get just a little more volume. Then don't touch! The more you touch the curls, the frizzier they will become. That is all I normally do to my hair when I wear it curly (starting from the first tip).

Note: It is totally worth the investment to find a hair dryer that comes with a diffuser attachment. I have tried "universal" diffusers, but without much luck. Most do not stay in place and shoot across the room as soon as your turn the dryer on. Save yourself the trouble and buy a dryer with a diffuser attachment.

 

Use a curling iron to tame the curls that have gone awry. It's bound to happen. A curl or two will go completely straight or look completely wacky. Leave about 1 1/2 inches of the ends out, and wrap the rest around the barrel of the iron for a few seconds. Leaving the ends out will create a more natural looking curl instead of a perfect ringlet that was obviously styled with hot tools.

 

A little oil can go a long way. After your hair has dried, a little oil on the ends can help manage frizz and make your hair look really healthy. Just don't overdo it. Too much will weigh down the curls and look greasy. No thanks!

 

Experiment. My curls are loose; some are spiral-shaped, and others are more S-shaped waves. Try different products and different techniques to see what works best for you. Air dry it one day, and try using a diffuser the next. Try twisting individual curls to create a tighter curl. Mix and match products, or don't use any products at all. There is no one way to style curly hair. Find what works best for you!

 

Hopefully you've found something helpful or a new product to try. I'd love to hear your favorite curly hair products and styling techniques! Let me know in the comments below!

 



The truth about growing out your hair.

My hair has been just about every length except a pixie cut (and the thought has crossed my mind). For several years, I have grown my hair pretty long, then chopped it off pretty short. I actually really like my hair short. My favorite short hair cut was in February of this year. I even decided I was going to keep my hair short indefinitely. A few weeks later, I realized that my short hair was going to take some dedication to maintain. After three weeks, I already felt like I needed a trim to keep it the length and shape I loved. When you’re paying $50+ for a haircut, it adds up really fast if you get a cut once a month! My hair seemed to be growing like crazy, but I let it go because I couldn’t stomach paying another $50 just three weeks later. In May, I finally coughed up the cash and went for a second cut. This time, I wasn’t so crazy about it. Something was different, and I decided it was time to grow it out again.

 

This picture was taken in April of this year. My favorite length and style.

 

My progress:

 

My goal (or longer):

 

 

Which leads me to today’s topic: the truth about growing out your hair.

 

Let’s start with some facts.

      Hair is made of a protein called keratin. There are essentially two parts of hair: the follicle, which is in the skin, and the shaft, which is the hair that can be seen growing from the scalp. A structure called the papilla at the base of the follicle contains capillaries that provide the nourishment to the hair. The only part of the hair that is living is the bulb, which surrounds the papilla.

 

      The shaft is nonliving. It has three layers: the medulla (the core of the hair shaft), the cortex (this makes up the majority of the shaft), and the cuticle (the outer most part of the hair shaft). You can think of the cuticle as tiny scales that overlap each other like shingles.

      On average, hair on the scalp grows about 6 inches per year. There are three stages to hair growth, but they do not occur at the same time for each strand of hair. All three stages are occurring at any moment in time.

 

Anagen phase- This is the active phase when hair is actually growing. The hair on the scalp will stay in this phase anywhere between two and six years. This is what determines how long you can grow your hair. The hair on the rest of the body has much shorter anagen phases, which is why the hair is much shorter. Some people have short active phases, while others may have much longer active phases. Your genetics determine how long your hair will stay in this phase.

Catagen phase- This is a transitional phase where growth stops. It lasts two to three weeks. The outer root sheath shrinks and attaches to the root of the hair, forming what is called a club hair.

Telogen phase- This is the resting phase that lasts about 100 days. Anywhere between 25 and 100 hairs in the telogen phase are shed each day.

 

So what have we learned?

Your hair is already determined by genetics how long your hair will stay in the active growth phase and how quickly it will grow. There’s not much you can do to make your hair grow faster. You can only promote health of the hair that grows so that it can grow at its optimal potential. Because the shaft of the hair is dead, it cannot repair itself. Once damage is done, it’s permanent. However, there are things you can do to keep your hair healthy as you are waiting (sometimes painfully) for it to grow.

 

These are things I have learned in my experience of chopping off long locks and growing it out again that help keep hair healthy and strong.

 

1. Condition, condition, condition.

So, so important. Putting moisture back into your hair is key to keeping it healthy. Find one that works well with your hair type, and use conditioner every time you shampoo. At the moment, my favorite shampoo and conditioner are in the new L’Oreal Advanced Haircare line (in the black bottles). I’ve tried the Total Repair Extreme and the Power Moisture versions, and I love them both. I highly recommend these!

I also use a leave in conditioner every time I wash my hair. It seems like I’ve tried a million, and I have yet to find one that I “love”. I’ve tried it all from the It’s a 10 Miracle Leave In (terribly overrated in my opinion…not worth the money at all) to Garnier Fructis Triple Nutrition Nutrient Spray. So far, my favorite has been Aveeno’s Nourish + Condition Leave-In Treatment. It makes my hair feel softer and healthier. However, be warned that this spray can get all over the floor and make it very slippery!

 

2. Use a mask.

Again, I have tried countless hair masks. I have recently become a coconut oil convert. I was very skeptical after seeing so many links on Pinterest touting the miracle powers of coconut oil. After much researching, I have learned that there really are some studies backing up these claims, especially for treating acne. However, I really only use this as a hair mask. I bought a jar at Fresh Market for about $7. One jar should last you a pretty long time!

There are a million ways to use coconut oil as a mask. Here is how I do it:

• Scoop out about 1.5-2 tablespoons coconut oil (it is a solid at room temperature).
• Melt the oil in the microwave. I usually do about 20 seconds on high, stir it, then another 20 seconds.
• I like to section out my hair and work from the bottom sections up. After several attempts, I have found that the least messy way to work with the oil is to spoon out a small amount into your palms, rub your hands together, and work it through the ENDS ONLY of your hair (about the ears down).
• Leave it in your hair for at least thirty minutes. I like to do this when I know I won’t be going anywhere and will leave it in while I’m reading or painting my nails (or blogging!). You can also speed it up by covering your hair with a shower cap or plastic wrap and blasting it with a hair dryer for about 10-15 minutes.
• Wash it out (I normally shampoo twice) and follow up with your normal conditioner.

Note: You know how conditioner will immediately make your hair feel silky in the shower? Coconut oil will not make your hair feel like this right away. I can tell a huge difference after I’ve dried and styled my hair! Second note: When the coconut oil comes back down to room temperature, it will solidify again. To clean up, wipe out the bowl with a napkin and throw it away. Not a great idea to wash it down the sink!

Another mask I really like is the Macadamia Natural Oil Deep Repair Masque. The regular tub costs $33, but you can get the small travel packs for $4 if you want to try it without forking over a ton of money (this is what I did). I was able to get a good three uses out of it if not more.

 

3. Air Dry.

I realize this is not practical every day. My hair takes about half the day to be completely dry if I don’t blow dry it. Sometimes I will shower at night and let my hair air dry while I sleep. It has forced me to try new styles to work with my natural texture. I have learned lots of fun braids and twists to deal with these hair days! Check out YouTube videos for hair ideas if you are needing some inspiration.

That’s another point…play with your natural texture! Try embracing your curls or waves. On days I wear my hair curly, I use Deva Curl Light Holding Gel. I talked about it in this post. You may be surprised how much you love it and how much time it saves. Any time you can cut back on heat styling will help your hair tremendously.

 

4. Don’t wash your hair every day.

I rejected this idea for a very long time. I just knew there was no way I could skip a day washing my oily hair. Finding a dry shampoo that worked for me was a total game changer. I’ve always heard that you can “train” your hair to produce less oil if you suffer through a couple weeks of extra oily days. It actually makes sense to me, although I’m still not sure if it is true. From what I understand, your scalp produces more oil when it is stripped away by shampoo every day. The scalp compensates by producing more oil to replenish what shampoo washes away. When you start skipping days, your scalp doesn’t need so much and will eventually produce less oil. In my experience, this is true. Batiste has allowed me to skip at least one day (sometimes two) washing my hair. Think about it: if you cut back to washing your hair every other day, you are cutting the damage done to your hair in half every year! On the off days, try not to use heat styling, or use as little as possible. I normally do a half-up style or pull it all back if I just can’t wear it down.

Just try it. Give it a couple weeks.

 

5. Be gentle!

Hair is most fragile when it is wet. Use a wide tooth comb to work out any tangles while hair is wet (the leave in conditioner is a huge help here…I normally don’t have any tangles at all). I cringe any time I see a girl hastily ripping a brush through her wet hair! If you run into any tangles, dab  a little conditioner on the area and gently work the tangle out. Hair will rip and stretch very easily when it’s wet.

 

6. Supplements

This is another area where I have done a lot of research. Biotin is probably one of the most common supplements people take to help grow hair faster. It is a water soluble vitamin also known as Vitamin B7. Water soluble means that the body will flush out what is not used. There is no evidence that supports that biotin will do anything to promote hair and nail growth. Natural Standard (a natural medicine database) also shows that biotin has unclear and inconclusive data for the indication of brittle nails. It appears that biotin may only be effective if there is a true biotin deficiency (not very common). Even though there is no evidence at all to demonstrate its efficacy, I take 5,000 mcg of biotin every day. I figure if it does help, great. If it doesn’t, it will be flushed out of my body anyways.

Hair, skin, and nail vitamins contain an assortment of every day essential vitamins plus ingredients like biotin. If you are already taking an everyday multivitamin, it’s possible to take too much of certain vitamins. Make sure you read the labels, and try to find a supplement that is USP certified if you choose to take any over the counter supplements. Of course, consult your physician before starting any supplement regimen on your own!

 

7. Protect

Use a heat protector any time you use any hot tools on your hair. I have really liked Tresemme’s Thermal Creations Heat Tamer Spray. It dries quickly and doesn’t make my hair feel crunchy or dry. Spray through the hair before using a straightener or curling iron, brush through, and style as normal.

 

8. Hair products

Most days, the only styling product I use is a serum or hair oil like Morrocanoil Hair Treatment. This stuff has been the best I’ve found so far, but it is a bit expensive at $43 for 3.4 fluid ounces. However, one bottle has lasted me as long as 6-8 months. Frizz Ease is another budget friendly option. These products will help smooth the cuticle of the hair and will fill in any damage in the hair shaft. Keep in mind…it will only improve the appearance of the hair. It will not “fix” damaged or split ends.

 

9. Get a trim…only when you need it!

It is a huge myth that cutting your hair will make it grow faster. It is, however, important to trim your hair when you notice split ends are a problem. I don’t believe in the “every 6 weeks” rule. A scissor happy hair stylist can cut off the inch or so of hair you worked so hard to grow! If you don’t need it, don’t cut it. This time frame will be different for everyone depending on the amount of heat styling and damage. Split ends can travel up the hair shaft or break off, causing the ends to look frayed and jagged. I strongly believe that if you’re going to have long hair, it needs to look and be healthy. If the ends are obviously damaged, get a haircut to take off the fried ends. It may be difficult to say goodbye to a couple inches, but it is so necessary for healthy hair.

 

If you are trying to grow your hair like me, I hope you’ve found some helpful tips here! Keep it up! I know it’s hard to be patient.

 

Have you tried any of these products? What are your favorite tips and products to make it through this “growing out” phase?

 

My information came from Natural Standard database and this article from WebMD.

 

P.S. Merry Christmas Eve! I hope you all have a wonderful and safe Christmas holiday!

October Favorites

These are a few things I have reached for time and time again throughout this month. I'd love to know what you think of these products and if you love them as much as I do!

1. They're Real! mascara by Benefit Cosmetics $23

 

I almost never buy high-end mascaras. I've tried several...Dior Diorshow mascara, Lancôme Hypnose, Benefit BADgal Lash, Estee Lauder Double Wear, Blinc mascara, etc. None have ever impressed me, and they dry out so quickly it's just not worth the extra money in my opinion. I have been using (and loving) Maybelline's The Rocket mascara. However, I got a sample of this mascara in my birthday gift from Sephora, and I love this stuff! I have to admit...I only paid $7.25 on Birchbox.com using a discount and my Birchbox points. Not a bad deal, right?

 

My eyelashes look nonexistent without mascara. They are super straight and pretty skimpy. With this mascara, it looks like I have a ton of thick lashes. It does an awesome job of fanning them out and making them look separated and pretty. On top of all that, it holds the curl in my lashes until I take it off at the end of the day.

 

 

I love the brush with this mascara. It has rubberized bristles, but the end of the brush is what I like the most. It does an amazing job of grabbing those inner eyelashes and separating and defining single lashes for a flirtier look. That's one complaint I have with The Rocket mascara. The end of the brush is flat and can make your lashes clump together if you're not careful.

 

If you're looking to try a new mascara, this one is totally worth a try!

 

 

2. Maybelline's Fit Me Concealer $6

 

 

I bought this after seeing Jaclyn Hill use it on her YouTube channel. This is a really great concealer! The consistency is actually pretty thin, but it covers so well. It's not drying, and works well with the other foundations I've used. I use it on undereye circles or any blemishes that may pop up. At about $6 (depending on the store), you can't go wrong.

 

4. Maybelline's Color Elixir $8

 

 

I wrote about these in my "Fall Essentials" post, and I am in love with these lip glosses! I'm not even sure "lip gloss" is the correct classification for this product. It is so much more. The consistency is like a lip gloss, the color is like a lipstick, and I have found it actually has pretty impressive staying power. Rose Redefined and Raspberry Rhapsody have been my favorite colors. Since the colors don't show up great in the tube, here are swatches of these two shades:

 



 

 

Raspberry Rhapsody is on top, and Rose Redefined is on bottom. I prefer to wear these alone instead of over a lipstick. I tried layering Raspberry Rhapsody over Revlon's Lip Butter in Raspberry Pie, and I wasn't too crazy about the combo. For me, each look better on their own. Rose Redefined adds just the perfect pink/rose color to your lips that goes with almost every look. I can't say enough good things about the Color Elixirs!

 

5. Laura Mercier Foundation Powder $40

 

 





I debated including this in my favorites. It is my all time favorite foundation. The reason I almost didn't include it is because, to my despair, it is being discontinued and replaced with garbage.

Let me start with why this one is so amazing. This stuff makes your skin look AMAZING. Flawless. I have combo skin and often powders and powder foundations can dry my skin out and make it look flakey around my nose and mouth (gross). Not this one. It makes your skin look perfect in person, but it also makes your skin look equally gorgeous in pictures or on camera. It is super easy and fast to use. I am always running late. Always. I can't help it. It doesn't matter if I wake up thirty minutes before I have to leave or three hours. This product is a huge time saver for me! I like to spend more time doing eye makeup than on the rest of my face, so it's nice to have a product that gets the job done quickly. I normally don't even need concealer when I use this foundation. It covers dark circles and blemishes without needing extra products to cover anything up. It doesn't look cakey or powdery on the skin. Just perfection.

Now, I don't normally say anything bad about products I don't like. In this case, I really feel like an amazing product is being replaced with something that is not even close to the same level. The Smooth Finish Foundation Powder is what Laura Mercier has produced to take the place of the original Foundation Powder. This is how the company describes the new product: "A second-skin, oil-free powder foundation that can be used wet or dry. This silky smooth innovation offers a natural veil that imparts a color-true finish that lasts up to eight hours. It glides on effortlessly, camouflages, hydrates, and blurs fine lines, never settling into them. Ultra fine micronized pigments flex with skin for coverage that is even and flawless. Use it as a sheer to medium powder or build coverage using it wet." No. Just no. None of this is true. When I couldn't find my trusty favorite in Sephora, I asked why there wasn't a place for it anymore. The girl confirmed my worst nightmare...it was being discontinued. She continued to inform me that this new product promised to be even better than the original. I was very skeptical and looked at other options, but decided to bite the bullet and try the new foundation. (Might I mention it is also a little more expensive at $45.) This looks like powder on top of your skin, the coverage isn't even comparable to the original powder, it made me look like I have serious wrinkles and lines, and overall looked terrible. I was SO disappointed. I returned it the next day and ordered two of the original Foundation Powders online.

You can still find it online at Sephora, although two colors are out of stock right now. All shades are sold out on the Laura Mercier website.

If you have tried the new powder and love it, I'm genuinely happy for you. I wish it worked as well for me. If there is anyone reading this who has anything to do with Laura Mercier, please, PLEASE, PLEASE do not let this product be discontinued!!!!

If you know of a product that is as amazing as the original LM Foundation Powder, please let me know. I will be looking for a new one after the two compacts I have run out.

6. Batiste Dry Shampoo $8

 

I try really hard to go a couple days between washing my hair. Some days it's just not possible, but other days, this product is a life saver. It seems like I've tried a million dry shampoos, but this one has definitely been the best I've found. It actually makes my hair look clean, whereas others have only left a nice smell and didn't make much of a difference in how oily my hair looked. However, I won't get this particular scent again. It makes me think of a bathroom freshener. Not necessarily a bad smell, but I don't want to smell like a bottle of Glade, either.

 

7. Devacurl AnGEL (now known as Devacurl Light Defining Gel $18.95 for 12 oz.)

 

 

I have used this gel for years. My hair is naturally wavy/very loose curls. I always come back to this product after trying other curly hair gels or creams. It always makes my waves/curls look defined but touchable. It may make your hair feel SLIGHTLY cruchy, but a couple of scrunches and the crunch is gone. It is actually made to work that way. It forms a "cast" to enhance each curl. It doesn't leave any residue or flakiness in your hair. I always buy this from Ulta when I get one of the coupons in the mail.

 

 

I highly recommend any of these products. Let me know if you try them and what you think!